Toast the peppercorns with the cumin over moderate heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Let cool, then coarsely grind.

Set a large colander in the sink and line it with 3 layers of moistened cheesecloth, leaving 2 inches of overhang all around.

Bring the milk to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, immediately add 3 tablespoons of the vinegar and stir gently; the milk should separate into fluffy curds and watery whey. If not, add another tablespoon of vinegar.

Pour the curds into the lined colander and let drain for 10 minutes.

Gently stir the ground spices into the curds.

Gather up the corners of the cheesecloth and twist the cheese into a tight ball, squeezing out as much liquid as possible.

Tie the cheesecloth with string, then transfer it to a work surface with the twisted end of the cloth off to the side.

Set a cutting board on the cheese and weigh it down with heavy skillets or large cans. Let the cheese stand until firm and dry, about 5 minutes.

Remove the cheesecloth before refrigerating or cutting the cheese.